Exploring the Mystique of the Isle of Orkney – Is it Worth the Trip?
We did really um and ah about a visit to Orkney! Would we have time to do it justice? Would there be enough to do there for us to justify the price of the ferry? Would it be too cold? Would it feel too remote?
Well despite all the internal questions, we need not have doubted our decision. We actually fell in love on the 90minute journey over. Click here for a short video of the journey from Scrabster to Stromness. For part of the journey we sailed towards and then past Hoy, which is just spectacular and seriously dramatic. As we arrived in the beautiful and captivating town of Stromness, we were confident we had made the right decision, but little did we know how much Orkney actually had in store for us!
How can you get to the Isle of Orkney?
We sailed to Stromness, Orkney with NorthLink Ferries. Booking was easy with NorthLink Ferries, costing just over £230 for the four of us and vehicle on a return trip. The journey is a prompt 90minutes, but once you leave your vehicle, you can’t return, so make sure you take everything with you. Dogs are allowed on the sundeck or you can book a kennel, or leave them in your vehicle. Be sure to look out for Orca, Minke Whale and dolphins on your way! We were lucky enough to see two Minke Whales. At this point in time, masks are to be worn at all times and social distancing measures are to be adhered to while on board the ferry.
There are other ways to travel to Orkney - you can even fly with direct flights from Edinburgh, Glasgow, Inverness, Sumburgh (Shetland) and Aberdeen. There are also several ferry routes, depending on where you want to leave from.
Northlink Ferries from Scrabster of Stromness (this is the route we took)
Northlink Ferries also go from Aberdeen to Kirkwall taking 6 hours
Pentland Ferries sail from Gill’s Bay to St Margarets Hope taking 60 minutes
What is there to do in Orkney?
We were so surprised with how much this seemingly sleepy island had to offer. Steeped in history, there is a wealth of opportunities for individuals, couples and families to explore.
In the islands of Orkney, the ‘mainland’ refers to the main island, rather than mainland Scotland or Britain. At the heart of the mainland is the capital - Kirkwall - with a population of approximately 9,300. We visited briefly, but we visited Orkney to experience more remote areas, so we didn’t stay long in Kirkwall. However, there are lots of things to do, including visiting Britain’s most northerly cathedral - St Magnus Cathedral, the Earl’s Palace, the Orkney Museum and the Wireless Museum.
Stromness is where we sailed into and it held our hearts. It is the second most populated city on the mainland with just over 2,000 residents. We loved strolling around the cobbled streets and visiting the beautiful independent boutiques.
One of the other places we enjoyed visiting most was Skara Brae. Step back 5,000 years in time at this UNESCO World Heritage Site that was uncovered by a storm in 1850. Skara Brae is a prehistoric village that was built before Stonehenge. As well as the Neolithic village itself, there is a visitors’ center that includes artefacts found on the site, such as jewellery and tools. There is a replica home that allows visitors to imagine what life was really like (although, at the time of our visit, this was closed due to Covid restrictions). There are some information boards on site, but the staff were full of information and happy to answer all the questions we had.
Next to Skara Brae there is an absolutely idyllic beach with pure white sand and crashing waves. There is a small carpark and toilet facilities - it would make a fabulous wild camping spot too. On this occasion we didn’t stay there.
We also found a visit to the Italian Chapel and Churchill Barriers fascinating. During World War II, 550 Italian Prisoners of War were held on Orkney, where they were made to build the Churchill Barriers. A prisoner named Domenico Chiocchetti, who was held on Lambholm, managed to convince their camp commander to allow him and others to build a chapel, as most of them were Catholic. They were allowed to do so if they worked outside of their normal hours, and were given two Nissan huts to use. They worked hard to create somewhere really special! The drive along the A961 from Kirkwall to Burwick along the Churchill Barriers is nothing short of spectacular. Born from a time of conflict and tragedy, the Churchill Barriers are remarkable structures and a relic from Orkney’s role in the Second World War.
There are lots of other places to visit too, but don’t forget about saving time to explore all the beautiful white sandy beaches and just driving and getting ‘lost’ on the Island.
Brough of Birsay This can only be accessed at low tide, so be sure to check the tide times before your visit. Also between May and August, keep an eye out for nesting puffins!
Ring of Brodgar Stone Circle and Henge
The Orkney Fossil and Heritage Centre
We also had found a wonderful wild camping spot at Deerness. There is a beautiful beach there, where single-night wild camping stays are welcome. See more of our Scottish wild camping spots here.
Can you visit other islands from Orkney?
Orkney is one of 70 islands, of which 20 are permanently inhabited. There are plenty of opportunities to island hop while visiting mainland Orkney. We decided to take a 30 minute ferry to the island of Hoy with Orkney Ferries. Measuring 143 square kilometres it is actually the second largest island after the mainland. However, with a population of around 300 people, it is extremely remote. There is nothing in the way of shops or facilities. In fact we only saw a cafe; despite Google telling us there was a shop - we didn’t see it. The climate tends to be on the windy side, so we found wild camping opportunities a little limiting, but maybe that was due to the weather conditions when we were there. It was £80 for the crossing, but we loved our time there. 24hrs is enough to explore the island unless you are particularly fond of remote areas.
If you plan on visiting Hoy, then a visit to Rackwick Beach is a must! It is extremely remote and completely idylic. I’d go as far to say it must be the most beautiful place in Orkney. Rackwick Bay means “wreckage bay,” in the Old Norse language of early Viking settlers. The name reflects the terrible fate suffered by many ships as they attempted to cross the Pentland Firth, even in more recent days. Fortunately for us, this island sanctuary is much easier to get to now. You’ll first notice the giant sea-smooth boulders that are stunning shades of pink and white. Surrounded by cliffs, you can also see clearly to the Old Man of Hoy. In fact you can walk from here or a little further up from Hoy Hostel. Due to the sheer scale of the cliffs and the wind conditions when we were there, we decided not to risk the hike to see the Old Man of Hoy. During the summer months, you might be lucky enough to see the puffins nesting in the cliffs too.
Where can you stay in Orkney?
There are a lot more accommodation options in Orkney than I expected. Lots of self catering options and a few campsites, plus opportunities for wild camping. We stayed at Point of Ness Campsite which is situated on the shoreline overlooking Stromness, one mile west of the ferry port. At first I was worried about the proximity to the harbour and wondered if the ferries would keep us awake, but they didn’t. Actually they provided us with lots of entertainment and we loved watching them enter and exit the harbour. The campsite provides dramatic views to the hills of Hoy and is located in a quiet location with a shoreline walk from the site. After talking to several locals, it seems that it is this shoreline that is notorious for spotting Orca. We didn’t see any on this occasion, but maybe next time.
In total, we spent six days and five nights in Orkney (one of those nights was in Hoy) and we feel we have only just scratched the surface of what Orkney has to offer. We loved the stunning scenery, the fact that Orkney is steeped in history and its location to some of the most beautiful beaches we have ever visited. When visiting, you will need at least three full days as a minimum. Personally we would recommend longer. Orkney has a very laid back feel and it would be such a shame not to be able to embrace that charm and relax into your time there.
Orkney, we will be back! Next time we would like to combine you with a trip to the Shetland Islands too.
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