Exploring the Isle of Harris and Lewis with a Campervan
If there was ever one place in the UK that I didn’t want to share and keep all for myself then it would be the Isle of Lewis and Harris. Whilst I urge you to visit, part of the beauty of this island is the fact that it is so secluded and remote. Instead, consider when you visit - it is likely to be busier (like anywhere else) during the summer holidays and even though it is typically ‘midgie’ season on the west coast of Scotland during the summer months, the island will without a doubt be more heavily populated. While it will still be beautiful, it might detract from your visit a little.
Where is the Island of Harris and Lewis?
Lewis and Harris is a Scottish island in the Outer Hebrides, off the West Coast of the Scottish mainland. They frequently referred to as if they were separate islands, but they are in fact one! It is the largest island in Scotland and the third largest in the British Isles. The northern two-thirds is called Lewis and the southern third Harris. Exploring the Isle of Harris and Lewis with a campervan can be an amazing and unique experience. The two isles offer stunning landscapes, a wealth of wildlife, fascinating history, and remarkable landscapes.
How can you get to the Isle of Harris or Lewis?
There are lots of ways to get to the Isle of Harris and Lewis, but if you are reading this blog, then the likelihood is you are heading to The Outer Hebrides in your campervan. There are three ports of entry to take you to the Isle of Harris with ferries travelling seven days a week: The most common routes seem to be with Caledonian MacBrayne Ferries:
Go on the Ullapool ferry to Stornoway on Lewis and drive south (the Isles are connected).
Include Harris in an island hopscotch, from Barra through South Uist and North Uist to Leverburgh.
How long do you need to explore Harris and Lewis with your campervan?
This is a difficult question and one dependent mostly on the availability of your own time. We spent six nights and seven days there. We could have easily enjoyed another week, but overall we felt we had achieved a good balance between exploring the island and relaxing. We spent three days and two nights in Lewis, but were drawn to the stunning beaches in Harris for the rest of our stay. If you don’t have children and are happier to drive for larger proportions of the day, then you could see the best bits in three days. If you intend to explore Harris and Lewis as part of a bigger Outer Hebrides trip, then I recommend you spend the biggest proportion of your time here. It is also possible to combine visiting the Outer Hebrides with the remote islands of Coll and Tiree. During the summer months, Calmac provide a ferry service that runs from Castlebay Barra, to the Isle of Tiree.
What do I need to know before camping in the Isle of Lewis and Harris?
As a campervan family ourselves, we were unsure of what to expect when arriving in Tarbert, Harris, but we were instantly blown away with the islands beauty. You can find 10 of the Best Campsites in the Outer Hebrides here.
➡️ There are some wonderful small campsites in some of the most idyllic spots on the island. You can find a list of those open in 2021 on www.visitouterhebrides.co.uk website.
Some of the best formal campsites we saw were:
Can I wild camp on the Island of Harris and Lewis?
Is island of Harris and Lewis welcome responsible campers and campervanners, but wild camping there is unlike camping on the Scottish mainland. There some campsites on the island - all very low key, in epic locations, with basic facilities. A full list of those open this year can be found here. There are also lots of designated overnight parking spots. Usually these are community run and operate on honesty - you make a suggested donation of £5, £10 or £15 depending on the location and facilities available. On our first night in Lewis, we stayed on Cliff Beach, a community run designated parking spot with no facilities apart from a large bin. We made the suggested donation of £5 a night for our stay, with all funds going back to the prevention of coastal erosion. Click here to see a video of our spot and the sunset on Cliff Beach.
One of our favourite park ups we actually found by chance. A couple of miles north of Tarbert on the main road that runs the length of Harris is a junction signposted west to Huisinis on the B887. If you have the time, this single track road is your gateway to a 15 mile drive through some of the most glorious scenery. We went in search of Highland Coo - which we found and were delighted with the most wonderful park-up too. Huisinis Campervan Site is operated on a first come, first served basis and has room for only five campervans with electric hook ups. A suggested donation of £15 a night can be made via the on-site honesty box. There are also more non-electric pitches closer to the beach and facilities, but without hook up - suggested donation is £10. Toilets and drinking water are free. Showers £1 for 3minutes and chemical waste deposal is £3.
Buy your Google Map guide to the Outer Hebrides here. It includes:
Campsite recommendations, overnight parking/ community wild camping spots, chemical disposal points, must see attractions and towns, beaches, hikes, food and drink recommendations, driving routes and blog post links.
The West Harris Trust operates several different camping sites with facilities and six idyllic camping spots around the estate created to protect from roadside erosion. These six designated areas provide campervanners and motorhomes (no tents or caravans) a safe base for adventuring. Camping locations can be found here. We stayed two nights in one of the most amazing places we have ever stayed before - we paid the suggested donation of £5 per night via text message. For camping spots in North Harris click here.
What else do I need to know before visiting?
✅ It is fairly easy to dispose of portable toilet contents. This should always be done in one of the specially designated places across the island or you can visit a campsite and pay a small fee - usually about £3. You can find a map of all of the chemical disposal sites on www.visitouterhebrides.co.uk They are often available at most ferry ports too.
✅ Actively support the island economy - use campsites, ensure you pay for use of community overnight parking spots, visit cafes, shops and local traders. Often the smallest shops will be overflowing with essentials. Many of the overnight parking areas are run on honesty, with a box for you to post your money in or a number to text your fee to. Please pay the suggested donation amount! The most we’ve paid a night is £15 a night which includes electric hook up and the use of facilities!
✅ There are more than enough local shops and fresh produce on the Island. You do not need to stock up and bring all the food you want for your stay from the mainland.
❌ Open fires are not encouraged and not permitted on the machair (coastal grassland).
✅ Ensure you always leave no trace. All rubbish should be emptied in the bins provided, or take it with you if they are full. For more Dos and Don’t when Wild Camping, click here.
➡️ Everyone is encouraged to use recycling points to minimise waste and help maintain the environment. Again, a list of these can be found on the Visit Outer Hebrides website and they are easy to spot as you drive.
➡️ Make sure you have enough cash and some change (plenty of £1 coins) with you. Chemical disposal points sometimes require a fee and often there are voluntary boxes when you refill with drinking water. This money goes directly back to the local community, please show your appreciation and pay back ❤️
What is there to do on Lewis?
The Isle of Lewis in Scotland is a stunning destination and is the perfect place to explore with a campervan. Whether you’re looking for an adventurous holiday or a relaxing retreat there are lots of things to see and do. Lewis is approximately the top two-thirds of the island, but here you’ll find some very remote areas! In contrast to the modern Stornoway, you will find historical evidence of life thousands of years ago, with particular reference to ancient stone circles. Located in the west coast of Lewis, the 5,000 year old Callanish Stones are famous all over the world and well worth a visit. Also worth visiting on the most northerly point of Lewis is the Butt of Lewis lighthouse. Standing 37 meters above sea level, it is one of over 200 that are located around Scotland’s wild coastline. Today the lighthouse is automatic, so when daylight falls and rises between sea levels a small light sensor automatically switches the light on and off.
Beaches we loved in Lewis include, Dalberg, Uig, Ardroil, Mangersta, Cliff Beach and Traigh Mhor. Stornoway is also well worth a visit, not only to stock up on essential supplies, but it boasts some wonderful little shops and cafes. The Blue Lobster was one of our favourites.
Other places to visit in Lewis include:
Blackhouse Village, Gearrannan
West Coastal Walk
What is there to do on Harris?
The Isle of Harris provides plenty of things to do for camping enthusiasts, from wildlife spotting to exploring ancient ruins. Whether you’re a solo explorer or traveling with a group, you’ll be enthralled by the sheer beauty of this Scottish paradise. Harris boasts some of the best beaches in the world and we truly haven’t found anything more wonderful than driving around exploring each and every one of them! The most famous beach of all has to be Luskentyre. The 3-mile single-track road that links the beach to Harris’s main road is just amazing - be prepared to keep pinching yourself. There is a fair sized carpark that will take you straight onto the main beach - crystal clear waters, white sands and views over to Taransay - this beach is a dream!
Other places to visit in Harris:
The North Harris Eagle Observatory
Drive the Golden Road
Huisinis Beach - click here for our video of our day on Huisinis Beach.
Scarista Beach
Seilebost Beach
In summary, the majestic islands of Harris and Lewis is an ideal destination for campers looking for a peaceful and remote getaway. Its stillness and beauty is beyond charming and it is somewhere that has definitely stolen a special piece of my heart. When you’re done exploring, you can enjoy a cozy night in your campervan before embarking on an entirely new adventure the next day. From spectacular scenery and wild nature to fascinating history and local culture, an Isle of Harris camping trip is one you won’t forget!
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Buy your guide to the Outer Hebrides Google Map here. It includes:
Campsite recommendations, overnight parking/ community wild camping spots, chemical disposal points, must see attractions and towns, beaches, hikes, food and drink recommendations, driving routes and blog post links.
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